Sunday, November 22, 2009

Back in Beograd

So we have all returned to Belgrade to begin our independent study projects. Actually, that's not true, because a few people have gone other places to do their ISPs. A few girls are in BiH and one in Zagreb, so I believe that there are 7 of us still in Belgrade.

Before coming back to Belgrade, we spent a week in Zagreb preparing for our ISP. It was nice to go back to our starting point for a bit, but I forgot about the long commute I had from my homestay into the city center! It was still a nice week though. We had our final language exam (ahhhhh!) which I had to study loooong and hard for, but I think that I did decently.

On the 14th we took a bus back to Belgrade, which means that we've been here for a little over a week (and me without a single blog post; whoops). It has been great so far. Our ISP allows us to make our own schedules, with time for researching, interviewing and writing. We each work with an advisor who is knowledgeable about what we've chosen to study. They help us make contacts with people to interview and, of course, advise us.

So far on my ISP, I have done a lot of reading and met with my advisor, and will hopefully be meeting up with some contacts in the upcoming week (before I leave for ROME!!!). A few of the girls here, Marisa and Julie, have rented an apartment in the area of town where all the embassies are and near the place where Tito is buried, called House of Flowers. It's a decently far trek by bus (around an hour from my place) but it is a good neighborhood, and a great apartment. I've spent quite a bit of time hanging out with them there, making dinner, watching TV and drinking wine. It is nice to have a place to go to relax with my friends that isn't necessarily a cafe all the time.

On Friday night, I went on a sort of impromptu "clubbing" adventure. A few girls and I went to a cafe called Insomnia (it is on my street) for drinks. It was a cool atmosphere, and the drinks were kind of expensive, but it was nice. Afterwards, we made our way to a well-known club called Tube, which really is very tube-like on the inside. We danced for a few hours, and it was a good time. I was kind of surprised that not a whole lot of people in the club were actually dancing, but maybe we just went on the wrong night? Regardless, the girls and I had fun.

I have been reading a few tourist guides of Belgrade online that talk about how Belgrade is not really a "pretty" or "tourist-y" city. But as this guide said, it's "a city for people who love cities." I would agree that Belgrade isn't really a tourist destination. There are museums, and beautiful buildings and parks, but I don't know that a tourist in Belgrade would really get the feeling of the city, and how amazing it is. The shops, the cafes, the restaurants, the people. It is a fun and interesting place to live, and I've only been here a few weeks! It is unfortunate that not everyone that comes here can stay here for that period of time, and really see things the way I've been able to. I feel like even the two-ish months I'll be staying here are not enough to see and explore everything that I want to, and I really look forward to coming back someday.

Tomorrow is my birthday, and I'm really excited!!! We have some plans so far, but I will see how everything works about, and perhaps write about it afterwards!

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Internet issues in Bosnia-Herzegovina

So, I have been in Bosnia for the past few weeks. Sorry I have not updated much, but I was having internet issues in Bosnia. But now we are back in Zagreb for a week, and I will hopefully have time to write about how amazing Bosnia is.

However, I will write about our experience yesterday, because it was amazing. We left early from Mostar to go to Dubrovnik, a city on the southern coast of Croatia.We got there around noon, after a few hour drive. The drive itself was so gorgeous. We went through mountains, by an amazing blue-green river and saw some of the coast. It was sunny and pretty warm so it was a perfect day to go.

When we arrived, I think we were all in awe to see the Adriatic. It is such an amazing color blue, it looks fake. The first thing we saw was... a ton of tourists, mostly old people speaking English. It was weird! We do not normally see many tourists. We took a quick tour around before we went for lunch. The city is surrounded by a big fortress-type wall which looks out over the sea. We walked around inside of it, where there are many gift shops and restaurants and coffee shops. We also saw a war memorial (we do not really go anywhere on this program without seeing one). Although there have been many wars in Croatia, Dubrovnik has historically been left alone, due to its beauty and history. However, in the most recent war, it was attacked. It was horrible to see the pictures of the town on fire and bridges being bombed. Really, most of the towns we have been in went through the same thing, but for Serbia to attack Dubrovnik was really sort of a slap in the face.

We went for lunch at a small cafe with amazing seafood (of course). Apparently, it is a good month for oysters, so we ordered some. I do not know if I have ever had oysters before, but I am sure that they were not as good as these. They were really delicious. We also ordered a huge plate of mussels, and mussels risotto and calamari risotto (it was black). And of course, white wine. There were a ton of cats all around the restaurant, begging for food like dogs! One of them even jumped up on my lap and took a nap! It was adorable. We ate A TON of food, and then went to finish sightseeing.

It is possible to take a walking tour around the top of the fortress wall, so we did that. I cannot even begin to explain how amazing it is. As soon as I post pictures, you can see for yourself, but even those do not really do it justice. Needless to say, it is a view I will never forget.

Of course, since most of us in the program are usually landlocked, we NEEDED to swim in the water. A few of the girls got a little more adventurous and went to find a rock to go climb and jump off of, but the rest of us just trespassed onto a local beach. I was content to stand with my jeans rolled up and let the waves wash over my feet, but two other girls stripped down and jumped in! It looked really fun and I wish we all would have been able to go swimming, but we were only on a day trip with nothing to change into for our hours of travelling back to Zagreb.

We finished the day watching the sunset at a cafe jutting out from one of the fortress walls and listening to the waves crash on the rocks below us.  We took a short flight back to Zagreb, and returned home (I think we all feel like our first host families are like "home" to us now).

We have the next week to work on our ISP proposal before returning to Belgrade (or whereever we choose to go), so hopefully I will find some time to update about my trip to Bosnia.